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Author Topic: Chirp Chirp  (Read 1336 times)
my63
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Defending myself from the DLWM crowd

« Reply #45 on: December 10, 2011, 11:58:51 PM »

Yup thats all the thoughts going on in my head. One thing I was thinking was cut the cage out of the one car, and cutting the floor out of my car and then doing a swap a roo if that makes sense. I talked to a few people and they said its doable and not too hard to do. It might be cheaper to drop it off at a chassis shop and have them do it for me. lot of different ways to go about it. Part of me thinks im getting in over my head.
Its too bad that car got wrecked, it was forsale that morning for $25k complete. It had the fancy strut/spindle combo, a nice fab 9 in it which is a bit banged up now, but fixable and might beable to get that fixed either free or decently cheap.

That's a butt load of spot welds to deal with and having not seen your other car to see what remains of the torque boxes, rtc, may be a harder job than you think, considering wether you have done this before or not.

Don't get ne wrong here Tim, I am not discounting your abilities as I have seen pictures of what you can do, but think it through alot before diving in.

Without seeing/taking measurements of the wrecked car, visually, I would guess the rear chassis mounts and such are tweeked.

The last thing you want, is to invest alot of hard earned cash into this car and constantly fight with it to launch straight and consistantly.

Another thought, if your sure you want to put that cage in another car, is to sell the car you have as is, and find another "stock" car to transplant this into.

Myself, my first inclination would be to fix the stubs and reskin it. But that's just me.
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etracer
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« Reply #46 on: December 11, 2011, 12:04:16 AM »

Yup thats all the thoughts going on in my head. One thing I was thinking was cut the cage out of the one car, and cutting the floor out of my car and then doing a swap a roo if that makes sense. I talked to a few people and they said its doable and not too hard to do. It might be cheaper to drop it off at a chassis shop and have them do it for me. lot of different ways to go about it. Part of me thinks im getting in over my head.
Its too bad that car got wrecked, it was forsale that morning for $25k complete. It had the fancy strut/spindle combo, a nice fab 9 in it which is a bit banged up now, but fixable and might beable to get that fixed either free or decently cheap.

That's a butt load of spot welds to deal with and having not seen your other car to see what remains of the torque boxes, rtc, may be a harder job than you think, considering wether you have done this before or not.

Don't get ne wrong here Tim, I am not discounting your abilities as I have seen pictures of what you can do, but think it through alot before diving in.

Without seeing/taking measurements of the wrecked car, visually, I would guess the rear chassis mounts and such are tweeked.

The last thing you want, is to invest alot of hard earned cash into this car and constantly fight with it to launch straight and consistantly.

Another thought, if your sure you want to put that cage in another car, is to sell the car you have as is, and find another "stock" car to transplant this into.

Myself, my first inclination would be to fix the stubs and reskin it. But that's just me.

I agree...............you can't just change bodies and be done.............That chassis need a lot of work.
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FordRacing250
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« Reply #47 on: December 11, 2011, 12:08:29 AM »

Yup thats all the thoughts going on in my head. One thing I was thinking was cut the cage out of the one car, and cutting the floor out of my car and then doing a swap a roo if that makes sense. I talked to a few people and they said its doable and not too hard to do. It might be cheaper to drop it off at a chassis shop and have them do it for me. lot of different ways to go about it. Part of me thinks im getting in over my head.
Its too bad that car got wrecked, it was forsale that morning for $25k complete. It had the fancy strut/spindle combo, a nice fab 9 in it which is a bit banged up now, but fixable and might beable to get that fixed either free or decently cheap.

That's a butt load of spot welds to deal with and having not seen your other car to see what remains of the torque boxes, rtc, may be a harder job than you think, considering wether you have done this before or not.

Don't get ne wrong here Tim, I am not discounting your abilities as I have seen pictures of what you can do, but think it through alot before diving in.

Without seeing/taking measurements of the wrecked car, visually, I would guess the rear chassis mounts and such are tweeked.

The last thing you want, is to invest alot of hard earned cash into this car and constantly fight with it to launch straight and consistantly.

Another thought, if your sure you want to put that cage in another car, is to sell the car you have as is, and find another "stock" car to transplant this into.

Myself, my first inclination would be to fix the stubs and reskin it. But that's just me.
I know exactly what you saying, and appriciate the info/convo/guidance. I know where my skills are, and do believe id be in over my head alone. With help and a shop I think it would be doable. but would cost $$$ one thing I dont have. lol.
One the wrecked car, its basically a tube chassis with stock front suspension, rear is ladder bars i believe. I honestly dont remember right now.
Decisions/thinking and planning/research need to be done on my end.
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World 8.2 371 comming together now. Canfield 195's, Vic jr, with a super vic on the side... Solid Roller, Demon carb, all this connected to an AOD sitting in a 56 F100, mustang II front, 4 link rear.
FordRacing250
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« Reply #48 on: December 11, 2011, 12:10:24 AM »

I honestly dont know what im going to do. Might just cut the cage out of my car and redo it to my liking. I think that might be the best/cheapest bet.
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World 8.2 371 comming together now. Canfield 195's, Vic jr, with a super vic on the side... Solid Roller, Demon carb, all this connected to an AOD sitting in a 56 F100, mustang II front, 4 link rear.
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